How to Put Longboard Wheels on a Skateboard: Step-by-Step

To put longboard wheels on a skateboard, you need three things: wheels under 70mm in diameter (optimally 63-66mm), ½ inch riser pads with longer 1 ½ inch bolts, and a method to prevent wheel bite through tighter trucks. The swap uses the same axle nuts and bearings, but the larger, softer wheels change the ride from trick-focused to cruising-focused.

The 70mm ceiling isn’t arbitrary. It’s the point where wheel bite, the deck grinding into a turning wheel, becomes almost guaranteed without major deck modifications, which is a key consideration for how to put longboard wheels on a skateboard. That bite throws you off the board every time.

What follows: the exact size window that works, the essential hardware upgrade, the step-by-step swap that handles bearings correctly for how to put longboard wheels on a skateboard, and the one adjustment that makes the setup safe to ride. By the end, you’ll know if your wheels are even candidates and how to mount them without eating pavement.

Key Takeaways

• Use longboard wheels between 63 and 66mm in diameter; going over 70mm almost guarantees dangerous wheel bite.
• Install ½ inch riser pads and 8 x 1 ½ inch bolts, the stock hardware will be too short to secure the added height.
• Tighten your trucks and use harder bushings to increase resistance and prevent the deck from tilting enough to touch the larger wheels.
• Maintain high-quality bearings and clean them completely 2 to 4 times a year; they can last up to 12 months with proper care.
• Sources disagree on the wheel rotation pattern: Skate Camp recommends rotating wheels (e.g., back left to front right) every 3 months, while Element Brand describes the most common pattern as an X-pattern.

The 63-66mm Sweet Spot That Prevents Wheel Bite

Sources disagree on the standard skateboard wheel diameter range: Skate Camp states 49-54mm, while Stoked Ride Shop states 50mm-60mm. They’re small and hard, built for pop and slide on smooth skatepark concrete. Longboard wheels start around 60mm and go way up, but for a skateboard conversion, Skate Camp’s guide draws a hard line: don’t exceed 70mm. The optimal range is tighter, 63 to 66mm.

Why that specific window? It’s the balance point. A 63-66mm wheel gives you the smooth roll over cracks and pebbles that makes cruising pleasant, but it’s still short enough to be managed with a ½ inch riser pad and tighter trucks. Jump to 70mm or above, and you’re into territory where the deck will contact the wheel during a moderate turn, no matter how tight your trucks are. That contact is called wheel bite. When it happens, the wheel stops dead, and you don’t.

Common mistake: Skipping riser pads with 65mm wheels. The deck will compress onto the wheel on your first deep carve, locking it up and sending you over the front.

The other half of the equation is durometer, or hardness. Skateboard wheel durometer usually ranges from 78a to 101a. Longboard wheel durometer rating is typically between 70a and 80a. This softness absorbs vibration and lets you roll over rough pavement. It also means they grip more. You won’t be sliding these wheels easily, which changes how you approach stops and turns.

The Non-Negotiable Hardware Upgrade: Riser Pads and Bolts

You cannot just drop bigger wheels onto your existing setup. The geometry changes, and your current hardware doesn’t account for it. The essential add-ons are riser pads and longer bolts.

Riser pads are spacers that sit between the truck baseplate and the deck. For this modification, Skate Camp specifies ½ inch riser pads. This lifts the deck half an inch higher off the trucks, creating the vital clearance between the bottom of your deck and the top of your new, taller wheels.

Your stock hardware has a problem: your existing bolts are now too short. They have to pass through a thicker stack (deck + ½ inch riser + truck). You need 8 x 1 ½ inch bolts. Trying to force the original bolts will leave you with only a couple of threads engaged in the nut. That’s a failure point. Under load, those threads can strip, and a truck can come loose while you’re riding.

Component	Standard Skateboard	With Longboard Wheels (63-66mm)	Consequence If Wrong
Riser Pads	None or minimal (1/8″)	½ inch mandatory	Wheel bite, immediate stop & crash.
Bolts	1″ or 1 1/8″	1 ½ inch required	Insufficient thread engagement, truck loosens mid-ride.
Truck Tightness	Loose for quick turns	Tighter with harder bushings	Deck tilts too far, makes contact with wheel.
Wheel Feel	Free spin, slight play	Free spin, slight play (sources disagree on exact play)	Over-tightening damages bearings; under-tightening causes wobble.

The truck tightness adjustment is just as critical as the riser. You need relatively hard bushings and you need to tighten the kingpin nut. This increases the resistance between your truck and board, making the deck harder to tilt to its maximum angle. It’s your secondary defense against wheel bite after the riser pad. The ride will feel less carvy, but it will be stable and safe.

The 7-Step Swap Process (and the One Tool You Can’t Skip)

The physical act of swapping wheels for how to put longboard wheels on a skateboard is straightforward if you’ve ever changed a skateboard wheel before. The nuance is in handling the bearings and respecting the new hardware. You need a skate tool. If you don’t have one, alternative wrenches may work in a pinch, but the skate tool is the right tool for the job.

Step 1: Remove the Axle Nuts

Use your skate tool to loosen and remove the axle nuts on all four wheels. Set the nuts and any speed washers aside in a bowl so they don’t roll away.

Step 2: Pull Off the Old Wheels

Slide the old wheels off the truck axles. This is where you have a choice with the bearings. You can leave them pressed into the old wheels if you’re retiring those wheels, or you can transfer them to your new longboard wheels. For a cost-effective swap, you’ll be transferring them.

Step 3: Remove the Bearings from the Old Wheels

This is the step where sources show a clear, practical disagreement on technique. The goal is to get the bearing out without damaging it.

Skate Camp / Element Brand Method: “Pull the bearings out of your wheels with the axle of your truck… The axle should catch on the interior of the bearing. At this point, twist the wheel outwards to pull the bearing out.”

This is the field-expedient method. You slide the wheel halfway onto the axle so the axle tip catches the inner race of one bearing, then you lever the wheel off. It works, but it requires a firm, controlled twist. A jerky motion can damage the bearing.

The alternative, often recommended for beginners, is to use a dedicated bearing puller or to gently pry from the opposite side with a flathead screwdriver. The prying method risks bending the bearing shield if you slip. I’ve found the truck-axle method faster, but you have to listen for a soft pop, not a crunch. The crunch means you’re pressing the axle against the bearing balls, not the inner race.

Step 4: Install Trucks and Riser Pads

Take your trucks completely off the deck by removing the four mounting nuts on the baseplate. Place your ½ inch riser pad over the truck mounting holes on the underside of the deck. Align the truck baseplate over the riser pad, ensuring the kingpin (the large central bolt) faces inward toward the center of the deck. Insert your new 1 ½ inch bolts from the top of the deck down through the riser pad and into the truck baseplate. Thread the mounting nuts on finger-tight.

Step 5: Press Bearings into the New Wheels

Take a bearing and place it shield-side-down into the seat of your new longboard wheel. Using the axle of your truck or a bearing press, apply steady, even pressure until the bearing seats flush with the wheel’s hub. You’ll feel a solid click when it seats. Avoid hammering it in unevenly.

Step 6: Mount the Wheels and Adjust Tightness

Slide the new wheel (with bearing installed) onto the truck axle. Thread the axle nut on by hand until it’s finger-tight. Now, here’s the disagreement in action: how tight is final tightness?

• SkatePro states: “The wheel should have a small amount of side-to-side movement.”
• Element Brand says: “The sweet spot… Gives it a little play on the truck.”
• Skate Camp instructs: “There should be next to no movement between the nut and the truck,” but warns against over-tightening.

Consider this. The consensus is “a little play.” Tighten the nut until the wheel no longer wobbles loosely on the axle, then back it off slightly. The wheel should spin freely when you flick it. If you tighten it until there’s absolutely no lateral movement, you’re pinching the bearing races and creating friction. That friction kills speed and wears out the bearing fast. Sources disagree on final wheel tightness: SkatePro and Element Brand advise a small amount of side-to-side movement/play, while Skate Camp instructs there should be next to no movement between the nut and the truck.

Step 7: Check for Wheel Bite

Before you ride, perform the press test. Stand your board upright and press down hard on the deck near each wheel, simulating your weight in a deep turn. Look and listen. Does the deck touch the wheel? If it does, you need tighter trucks, harder bushings, or a bigger riser. Do not skip this test.

The Performance Trade-Off: Cruising vs. Tricks

Putting longboard wheels on a skateboard creates a hybrid, often called a “cruiser board.” It excels at one thing and compromises on another.

You’re trading trick performance for cruising comfort. The larger, softer wheels are heavier and have more grip. This makes flip tricks like kickflips and heelflips more difficult, the board rotates slower and sticks to the ground on landing. Pop is also slightly diminished. However, ollies and 180s are still very doable. What you gain is a sublime ride over rough pavement, brick roads, and sidewalk cracks. You carry speed better, push less often, and your feet and knees will thank you after a 30-minute ride across town.

It’s the ideal setup for a skater who uses their board primarily for transportation but still wants some maneuverability. It’s a poor choice for someone spending all day at the skatepark trying to master technical street tricks.

Longboard Trucks on a Skateboard? A Firm No.

A natural next question is, “If I’m using longboard wheels, should I also use longboard trucks?” The answer is a firm no for a standard skateboard deck.

Longboard trucks are wider and have a different turning geometry (often a lower degree kingpin). They are designed for longer wheelbases and stability at speed. Mounting them on a standard skateboard deck would result in a massive overhang, making the board awkward to turn and prone to tipping. It also changes the pressure points on the deck, which can lead to stress cracks. The modification we’re discussing keeps your original skateboard trucks. They are the compatible component.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put longboard wheels on a regular skateboard?

Yes, you can, provided you follow the guidelines: use wheels under 70mm (ideally 63-66mm), install ½ inch riser pads with longer 1 ½ inch bolts, and tighten your trucks to prevent wheel bite. It changes your board into a capable cruiser.

How do you attach wheels to a skateboard?

Wheels are attached by sliding them onto the truck axle, followed by a speed washer and an axle nut. The nut is tightened to allow the wheel to spin freely while having a slight amount of side-to-side play. Sources disagree on final wheel tightness: SkatePro and Element Brand advise a small amount of side-to-side movement/play, while Skate Camp instructs there should be next to no movement between the nut and the truck.

Are longboard wheels the same as skateboard wheels?

No. Longboard wheels are larger (typically 60mm+) and softer (70a-80a) for speed and comfort over rough ground. Skateboard wheels are smaller (49-54mm) and harder (78a-101a) for pop, slide, and trick performance on smooth surfaces.

What is a skateboard with longboard wheels called?

It’s commonly called a “cruiser board” or a “hybrid skateboard.” Some brands sell completes in this configuration, which blend a classic skateboard shape with larger, softer wheels.

Do I need new bearings to put longboard wheels on a skateboard?

Not necessarily. Your existing skateboard bearings are the correct size (8mm inner diameter) and will work fine in longboard wheels. The process involves pressing them out of your old wheels and into the new ones. Only replace them if they are worn out or damaged.

The Bottom Line

If your goal is a smoother commute and you’re willing to sacrifice some trick agility, this modification works. Stick to the 63-66mm window, bolt on the ½ inch risers with the longer hardware, and crank your trucks down a bit. That’s the formula that keeps you rolling instead of tumbling.

One final, essential rule: after you’ve assembled everything, do the press test for wheel bite. Then, take the board for a slow, cautious test ride in a safe, open area. Get a feel for the increased grip before you hit the streets. The setup feels different, it’s not worse, just purpose-built for a different kind of skating. Trust the process, not just the trick.