How Many Bearings Does a Longboard Need: Size and Count

A complete longboard needs eight bearings. You install two bearings inside each of the four wheels. The universal standard size for these bearings is 608, which measures 22mm in outer diameter, 7mm wide, with an 8mm inner hole. This number and size are consistent across virtually all traditional longboard setups.

That answer is absolute, but the path to it is where things get interesting. Manufacturers like S+S Sportartikel GmbH equip their boards with grease-packed industrial bearings never meant to be opened, while some riders and retailer blogs recommend cleaning and relubricating serviceable bearings every few months, and other sources recommend just buying new bearings and skipping cleaning. This isn’t a minor detail, it dictates whether you’re buying a disposable part or maintaining a serviceable component.

What follows is a breakdown of why eight is the magic number, what the 608 designation actually means, and the critical choice between sealed industrial and serviceable precision bearings. You’ll also learn how to diagnose a failing bearing and what to do when you only need to replace one.

Key Takeaways

• Every standard longboard requires eight 608-size bearings (22x7x8mm), two pressed into each wheel.
• Never use WD-40 on bearings; it’s too thin, leaks out quickly, and can damage the factory lubricant.
• Industrial bearings (common on completes) are grease-packed and sealed, replace them when they fail, don’t try to service them.
• A missing or damaged spacer between the two bearings in a wheel lets the inner races tilt under load, grinding the balls and killing the bearing.
• For most riders, a set of serviceable bearings offers a balance of performance, durability, and the option for maintenance.

The Universal Standard: 8 Bearings, Size 608

Open any manufacturer’s manual, from S+S Sportartikel GmbH to ABISAL SP. Z O.O., and the specification for the number and size of bearings is the same, though maintenance advice differs, which is why the question of how many bearings does a longboard need is so straightforward. The European standard for skateboards, DIN EN 13613, underpins this consistency. The math is simple: four wheels multiplied by two bearings per wheel equals eight total bearings.

The “two per wheel” design isn’t arbitrary. A single bearing mounted on the axle would allow the wheel to wobble excessively. The second bearing, seated on the opposite side of the wheel’s hub, creates a stable, fixed rotation axis. Between them sits a small metal tube called a spacer. This spacer is the unsung hero. When you tighten the axle nut, the pressure squeezes the spacer, which in turn presses against the inner races of both bearings. This locks the entire assembly, spacer and both bearings, into a single rigid unit inside the wheel. Without it, the inner races can shift independently, the balls skid instead of roll, and the bearing fails almost immediately.

The 608 bearing designation is a universal industrial standard. The “6” indicates a thin-type radial ball bearing, “0” represents the series (light), and “8” denotes the bore diameter: 8mm. Its dimensions are always 22mm outer diameter x 7mm width x 8mm inner diameter.

This universality is why you can confidently pick up a pack of standard 608 skateboard bearings and know they’ll fit most longboard trucks. It’s also why the question of bearing compatibility between skateboards and longboards has a straightforward answer: they are the same. The 608 standard is the great equalizer.

Where does the confusion come from? Sometimes you’ll see bearings described by their inner diameter alone: “8mm bearings.” This is correct, but incomplete. The full 608 spec includes the outer diameter and width, ensuring it fits the wheel hub and truck hanger space. Another source of confusion is the mention of “10mm bearings” for high-speed applications. While Stoked Ride Shop states the standard is 608 (22x7x8mm), The Longboard Store blog notes 10mm bearings are used on trucks made for high-speed longboarding.

Bearing Types: Industrial, Precision, and Built-Ins

Not all bearings labeled 608 are created equal. The most significant split is between industrial bearings and precision (or serviceable) bearings. Your approach to maintenance, repair, and even your perception of bearing cost hinges on which type you have.

Industrial Bearings are what you typically find on factory-complete boards. The S+S Sportartikel GmbH manual states their boards are “equipped with industrial bearings, which are filled with grease under high pressure during manufacturing.” These are sealed units. The ABISAL SP. Z O.O. Manual echoes this with a clear instruction: “Do not lubricate the bearings – they are factory lubricated.” The directive is absolute: when they get gritty or slow, you replace them. Taking them apart is not only discouraged but often physically destructive.

Precision Bearings, like the ubiquitous Bones Reds or Bronson G series, are the aftermarket standard. They are designed to be maintained. They feature removable shields (often rubber or plastic “C-clips”) that allow you to clean the ball chamber and relubricate with a dedicated skate bearing oil or grease. This is where the community practice of cleaning bearings every few months comes from. For these, learning how to clean longboard bearings is a core skill.

Then there are Built-In Bearings, a popular subset in longboarding. Brands like Zealous, Loaded Jehu, and Bear Space Balls integrate the spacer and speed washers into the bearing assembly itself. This eliminates the hassle of handling tiny, separate spacers and ensures perfect alignment every time you change bearings. The trade-off is that the built-in components are not user-serviceable in the same way; you clean and lube them as a sealed unit.

Bearing Type	Best For	Maintenance Rule	Common Example
Industrial	Factory completes, casual riders	Replace when noisy/slow. Do not open.	Bearings on a FunTomia or Decathlon board
Precision	Enthusiasts, riders who maintain gear	Clean & relubricate every few months.	Bones Reds, Bronson G2
Built-In	Downhill, freeride, anyone wanting easy install	Clean & relubricate as a unit; spacer is integrated.	Zealous, Loaded Jehu V2

The choice between them often comes down to your willingness to perform maintenance. The retailer Stoked Ride Shop bluntly states, “We recommend just buying new bearings and skipping the cleaning.” For a beginner, that’s not terrible advice. For someone who rides daily, investing in a serviceable set and maintaining it is far more economical and performant in the long run.

When 8 Isn’t Enough, or Is Too Many

You need eight bearings for a full set. But what if you only hear a gritty growl from one wheel? Do you buy a whole new set of eight?

Here’s the practical answer: you can replace a single bearing. Packs of 8 are standard because retailers assume you’re refreshing a whole board. However, bearings are sold individually by skate shops and industrial suppliers. If only one is shot, find a matching 608 (mind the type, don’t mix a sealed industrial with a serviceable precision) and swap it. The caveat is age. If your bearings have seen a year of hard use, replacing just one puts a fresh, tight bearing alongside seven worn-in ones. The load distribution won’t be even, and the new one will wear faster. Often, replacing the pair in the affected wheel is a smarter middle ground.

Common mistake: Mixing old and new bearings in the same wheel. The new bearing will carry more of the load, wearing out prematurely, while the old bearing may still have grit that migrates to the new one. Always replace bearings in pairs, at minimum.

What about having more than eight? The only scenario is if you’re setting up multiple boards or keeping a ready-to-go spare set. Some riders will have a “fast” set for downhill and a “cruising” set, quickly swapping entire wheelsets. In that case, you own 16 bearings across two sets of wheels. But for a single functional board on the ground, eight is the complete count.

This leads to the essential question of what bearings to get after you know how many bearings does a longboard need. If you’re replacing a full set, do you stick with the stock industrial type or upgrade? For a casual rider on a complete board, matching the original spec is fine. For anyone looking to improve roll speed or learn maintenance, a serviceable built-in bearing can be a value proposition. They come pre-lubricated, have integrated spacers, and are widely available.

The ABEC Rating Distraction and Real Performance Factors

If you’ve shopped for bearings, you’ve seen ABEC ratings: ABEC 1, 3, 5, 7, sometimes even 9. The higher the number, the more precise the bearing’s manufacturing tolerances are. This matters for a high-speed industrial spindle running at 20,000 RPM. It is almost entirely irrelevant for a longboard wheel spinning at a few hundred RPM under heavy side-load.

The forces on a longboard bearing are brutal and chaotic. You’ve got lateral pushes from carving, impacts from cracks, dirt and water ingress, and constant vibration. An ABEC 9 bearing isn’t engineered for this kind of abuse. Its tighter clearances can actually make it more susceptible to seizing when contaminated. As Concrete Waves notes, ABEC ratings are not as important as other factors for longboarding.

What matters more than ABEC? – Lubricant Quality: A thick, durable grease stays in place and protects the balls far longer than a thin oil.

• Seal Design: Rubber shields keep dirt out better than metal ones. Avoid double metal-shielded bearings if you ever plan to clean them.
• Ball Material: Steel is standard and perfectly good. Ceramic balls are harder and corrosion-resistant but are a premium upgrade with diminishing returns for most riders.
• Proper Installation: This is the biggest factor. A bearing installed without a spacer, or with the axle nut cranked down metal-on-metal, will be destroyed regardless of its ABEC rating or cost.

Focus on bearings designed for skateboarding from a brand. The engineering effort goes into the seal, lubricant, and durability for our specific use case, not just achieving a laboratory-grade tolerance.

Maintenance Conflicts: To Clean or Not to Clean?

This is the great divide. On one side, the manufacturer manuals (your primary sources) are clear. S+S Sportartikel GmbH: “You should never take the bearings apart!” ABISAL SP. Z O.O.: “Do not lubricate the bearings – they are factory lubricated.” Their stance is based on liability and the design of the industrial bearings they use.

On the other side, some retailer blogs and riders represent a different approach. “Most riders clean and grease their bearings every few months,” states The Longboard Store blog, while Stoked Ride Shop recommends just buying new bearings and skipping the cleaning.

So who’s right? Both, for the specific bearing type they’re addressing.

• Follow the manual for the industrial bearings that came on your board. They are disposable components. When they get loud or slow, replace them.
• Follow community practice for aftermarket precision bearings you purchased separately. Regular cleaning and relubrication can extend their life.

The universal rule that bridges both sides? Never use WD-40. It is a penetrant and water displacer, not a lubricant. It will wash out the factory grease and leave the bearings dry, leading to rapid wear. If you get your bearings wet, the ABISAL manual offers the correct fix: “Dry wet bearings with a clean, dry cloth.”

Diagnosing a Bearing Problem Before You Buy

How do you know if you even need to think about buying eight new bearings, which is the answer to how many bearings does a longboard need? The signs are physical and auditory.

First, listen. A healthy bearing spins with a soft, whirring sound. A dirty or dry bearing makes a gritty, grinding noise. A completely seized bearing is silent, the wheel simply won’t spin freely.

Second, feel. Remove the wheel and try to wiggle it side-to-side on the axle. Any noticeable play often indicates a worn bearing or, more commonly, a missing spacer that has allowed the bearing to deform.

Third, inspect the roll. Spin the wheel by hand. It should coast for a while before friction stops it. If it halts abruptly after a few seconds, a bearing is likely damaged or contaminated. But remember the manufacturer’s note: industrial bearings “only run smoothly under load during use.” They may feel a bit rough when spun by hand but smooth out under your weight.

If one wheel is problematic, start by checking the simplest thing: is the axle nut too tight? Back it off a quarter turn. If the problem persists, you’re likely looking at a bearing replacement.

Bearing materials (steel vs. Ceramic)

The fact sheet doesn’t specify materials like steel or ceramic, focusing instead on bearing types and maintenance. Most longboards come equipped with standard industrial bearings, which are factory lubricated and sealed. Manufacturer instructions often advise against taking these apart or adding lubricant yourself. When bearings wear out or stop functioning properly, the practical guidance is straightforward: replace them. The focus is on ensuring your bearings roll smoothly, regardless of the internal material, and following the replacement advice provided with your specific board.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are longboard and skateboard bearings the same?

Yes, for standard setups. Both use the 608 size bearing (22x7x8mm). You can swap them between a skateboard and a longboard. The differences come in bearing type (industrial vs. Precision) and lubricant, not the fundamental size.

What does the ABEC rating mean?

ABEC (Annular Bearing Engineers Committee) rating indicates manufacturing precision tolerance. Higher numbers (7, 9) mean tighter tolerances. For skateboarding, it’s a poor indicator of performance because it doesn’t account for lubricant, seal quality, or durability under impact. A well-lubricated ABEC 3 bearing will often outlast and outperform a dry ABEC 9.

Can I clean and reuse my old bearings?

It depends on the bearing type. You can clean and relubricate serviceable precision bearings (like Bones Reds). Do not attempt to take apart and clean sealed industrial bearings; they are not designed for it and you will likely damage them. Replace those when they fail.

Do I need special tools to change bearings?

The only essential tool is a skate tool to remove the axle nut. To press bearings out of a wheel, you can use the axle of your truck as a press, or a dedicated bearing press tool. For installing new ones, you can often press them in by hand, using the old bearing as a buffer to avoid damaging the new one.

The Bottom Line

You need eight 608 bearings. That number doesn’t change.

What does change is your relationship with those eight pieces of metal. If you ride a factory complete, treat them as consumables: ride them until they growl, then replace all eight with a matching set. If you invest in serviceable precision bearings, adopt a maintenance routine, and they can last a long time.

Be real about one thing. The most important bearing is the one you don’t ignore. A gritty, rumbling wheel isn’t just slow; it’s transferring damaging vibration through your truck and deck, and it can lock up unexpectedly. Whether you choose to replace or maintain, do it before the failure is complete. Your eight bearings are the only thing connecting your powerful push to the pavement. Keep them rolling smoothly.