How to Remove Longboard Trucks: Step-by-Step

To remove longboard trucks, you need a skate tool or a wrench and screwdriver to loosen the nuts securing the baseplate to the deck. For drop-through trucks, you must fully disassemble the truck, removing the kingpin nut, bushings, and hanger, before you can separate the baseplate from the deck.

The difference between a topmount and a drop-through isn’t just about looks. It changes the entire removal process, and getting it wrong can damage your board or leave you with a pile of parts you can’t reassemble. This guide walks you through both, including how to remove longboard trucks.

What follows: the one tool you absolutely need, the specific steps for each truck type when you compare a how to remove longboard trucks process, and how to handle the most common snag, seized hardware.

Key Takeaways

• You cannot remove drop-through trucks by just unbolting them; you must disassemble the truck first, following the manufacturer’s order.
• A skate T-tool is ideal, but a 13mm wrench and a Phillips screwdriver will work in a pinch for loosening axle and baseplate nuts.
• Always note the kingpin orientation before removal, getting it backwards during reinstallation inverts the board’s steering, a serious safety hazard.
• If a nut is seized, apply a penetrating lubricant and let it sit for 10 minutes before applying steady, firm pressure with the correct tool.
• Once the trucks are off, inspect the bushings, pivot cup, and deck holes for wear or damage that might need addressing.

The Tool You Need (and What to Use if You Don’t Have One)

You don’t need a workshop. For most jobs, a single tool covers it.

A skate T-tool is a multi-function tool useful for board maintenance. It’s the Swiss Army knife for board maintenance. If you don’t have one, a 13mm wrench for the axle nuts and a standard Phillips-head screwdriver will get the job done, as noted in the iFixit repair guide. A set of pliers can substitute for the smaller socket to grip the kingpin nut.

The axle nut is the one holding your wheel on. The kingpin nut is the one in the center of the truck hanger, pinching the bushings. The baseplate is bolted to the deck with four bolts, each with a nut on the opposite side, which is a core part of how to remove longboard trucks.

Common mistake: Using the wrong size socket and rounding off the nut. A 13mm wrench fits most truck axle nuts, but some brands use a half-inch size. If your 13mm is loose, try a 1/2-inch wrench.

The Drop-Through Trap: Why It’s Different

This is where most generic guides fail. A drop-through longboard, like the Decathlon DROP 100, has trucks mounted from the top. The baseplate sits on the deck, and the truck’s hanger passes down through a pre-cut hole. This design lowers the board for stability.

Because the baseplate is on top, you can’t just unbolt it from underneath. The hanger is in the way. The Decathlon support page is clear: “You cannot mount drop-through trucks without disassembling them.” You must take the truck apart before you can free the baseplate.

If you try to force it, you’ll likely bend the hanger or crack the deck around the mounting hole. The process isn’t harder, but it is different and requires you to keep track of more small parts.

Truck Type	Mounting	Removal Complexity	Key Difference
Topmount	Baseplate bolted underneath deck.	Simple. Remove 4 nuts.	Standard skateboard method.
Drop-Through	Baseplate on top, hanger through deck hole.	Complex. Full disassembly required first.	Must remove kingpin, bushings, and hanger to access baseplate bolts.

Step-by-Step: Removing Topmount Trucks

This is the straightforward method for most standard setups.

1. Secure the board. Place it on a stable surface, grip tape down. You can wedge it between your knees or use a bench vise with soft jaws. A slipping board is the fastest way to skinned knuckles.
2. Remove the wheels. Use your T-tool or 13mm wrench to loosen the axle nut on each wheel. The Decathlon guide warns to only loosen it slightly so the wheel spins freely but doesn’t come off the axle. This gives you clearance to work. Slide the wheel off.
3. Loosen the baseplate nuts. Flip the board over. Using the screwdriver side of your T-tool or a Phillips head, hold the bolt head steady on top of the deck. With the socket or a wrench, loosen the four nuts on the underside of the deck that secure the truck baseplate.
4. Remove the nuts and truck. Once all four nuts are loose, use your fingers to spin them off the rest of the way. Keep the bolts, nuts, and any washers together. The truck can now be lifted off the deck.

What happens if you skip removing the wheels? You’ll struggle to get a wrench onto the baseplate nuts, and you’ll almost certainly scratch your wheels. The 30 seconds it takes to pop the wheels off saves frustration.

The Detailed Dance: Removing Drop-Through Trucks

For a Decathlon drop-through or any similar model, follow this sequence from the manufacturer’s manual. It feels like more steps, but it’s logical.

1. Remove the wheels and note kingpin direction. Take the wheels off as described above. Before you touch anything else, look at the kingpin, the big bolt in the center of the hanger. The Decathlon guide states “the kingpin goes outwards!” and “faces the mounting hole on the deck.” iFixit advises to “Make sure the kingpin is facing outward.”

2. Disassemble the truck. This is the core difference. Following the Decathlon order:

   • Loosen and remove the kingpin nut using the appropriate socket on your T-tool or a set of pliers.
   • Remove the roadside bushing and washer (the cone-shaped bushing and washer on the side facing away from the board).
   • Slide the hanger off the kingpin.
   • Remove the boardside bushing and washer (the barrel-shaped bushing and washer next to the baseplate).

   Easy to miss: The pivot cup, a small plastic insert in the baseplate, can pop out and get lost when the hanger comes off. The Decathlon guide cautions you to be careful not to lose it.

3. Remove the baseplate. Now that the hanger is out of the way, you can access the four bolts securing the baseplate to the deck. Hold the bolt heads with a screwdriver and loosen the nuts underneath the deck with a wrench. Remove the nuts, bolts, and any washers, and lift the baseplate off.

I learned this order the hard way on an older sector 9 deck. I tried to unbolt the baseplate first, not knowing it was drop-through. The wrench wouldn’t fit, and I spent an hour convinced I was missing a tool before realizing the truck itself had to come apart. Now I always check the mounting before I grab a tool.

When Hardware Fights Back: Dealing with Seized Nuts

A rusty or overtightened nut that won’t budge is the most common frustration. Force is the enemy here.

First, ensure you’re turning the tool the right way. “Lefty loosey, righty tighty.” If it still won’t move, apply a penetrating lubricant like WD-40 or a dedicated rust penetrant directly to the threads of the nut and bolt. Let it soak for a few minutes, this is the step people skip.

After it soaks, use the correct size wrench or socket and apply steady, firm pressure. Avoid jerking or using cheater bars, which can strip the nut or snap the bolt. If the nut is truly seized, you may need to carefully cut it off with a rotary tool, but that’s a last resort that risks damaging the truck axle or deck.

Where this goes sideways: Using pliers on a seized axle nut. The soft metal of the nut deforms, making it impossible for a proper wrench to grip later. Always use the correct six-point socket or box-end wrench first.

What to Check Once the Trucks Are Off

Removal isn’t the end. It’s a chance for inspection.

• Bushings: Look for cracks, splits, or permanent deformation. Worn bushings affect turning and stability. This is a perfect time for a bushing replacement guide.
• Pivot Cup: Check for cracks or excessive wear inside the baseplate. A worn pivot cup creates slop and a vague steering feel.
• Deck Holes: For drop-through decks, inspect the pre-cut holes for any splintering or stress cracks. Light sanding can smooth rough edges.
• Hardware: Check bolts for bent threads and nuts for damaged internal threads. Reusing damaged hardware is a false economy.

This quick check can prevent a malfunction later. Understanding these components is part of knowing what longboard trucks are and how they work.

Reassembly Direction: The Kingpin Debate

When you go to install longboard trucks again, orientation is critical. Sources agree the kingpin must face outward, but there’s nuance.

Decathlon’s instruction, “the kingpin faces the mounting hole on the deck”, means the kingpin nut should be visible on the outside when the truck is mounted. IFixit’s warning that an inward-facing kingpin “will cause the longboard’s functions to be inverted” underscores the safety stakes. For reverse kingpin trucks (common on longboards), the kingpin shaft points toward the board’s center, with the nut on the outside.

The consequence isn’t academic. An inverted truck will steer opposite to your lean, which is a serious safety hazard.

Orientation	Description	Source Stance
Kingpin Outward	Kingpin nut is visible on the truck’s exterior side.	Decathlon: “the kingpin goes outwards!” iFixit: “Make sure the kingpin is facing outward.”
Kingpin Inward	Kingpin nut is hidden, facing the deck.	Universally warned against as dangerous.

After mounting trucks, perform a static test: lean the board side to side. The trucks should tilt in the direction you lean. If they tilt opposite, the kingpin is inverted.

What is the difference between standard and reverse kingpin trucks?

The main difference is how the kingpin is positioned inside the truck. In a reverse kingpin truck, the kingpin faces outward. This orientation changes how the truck leans and turns. Reverse kingpin setups are common on longboards and are designed to provide a smoother, more fluid turning feel, which can help limit wobble at higher speeds. The kingpin’s outward orientation is a key visual cue during installation; if it’s installed facing the wrong way, the board’s steering will feel inverted and unsafe.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I loosen the trucks on my longboard without a skate tool?

You can use a 13mm wrench (or 1/2-inch if 13mm is loose) for the axle nuts and a Phillips screwdriver for the baseplate bolts. A pair of pliers can grip the kingpin nut for adjustment. It’s less convenient but completely workable.

What’s the difference between removing longboard and skateboard trucks?

The core process is identical for topmount setups. The main differences are scale, longboard hardware is often the same size but may be tighter due to higher forces, and the prevalence of drop-through mounting on longboards, which requires the extra disassembly step.

Can removing trucks damage my deck?

Yes, if done incorrectly. Over-tightening baseplate bolts can cause pressure cracks around the mounting holes. Forcing a drop-through truck off without disassembly can crack the deck. Always use the proper tool and follow the correct sequence for your truck type.

How often should I remove my trucks for maintenance?

Only when necessary: to replace parts like bushings, to clean grit from the pivot cup, or to swap the trucks themselves. There’s no scheduled interval. If your board feels sloppy or turns unevenly, it’s time for an inspection.

Before You Go

One rule most guides skip: if you encounter a seized nut, stop. Apply penetrant, wait, and use the correct tool. Stripping a nut turns a 10-minute job into a hardware store trip and possibly a damaged truck.

The actual removal is simple mechanics. The expertise is in knowing which path to take, the simple unbolt for topmount, or the deliberate disassembly for drop-through. Now that you can disassemble a longboard at the truck level, you’re equipped to handle changing longboard wheels or a full longboard assembly with confidence.

Trust the process, not just the trick. Getting the fundamentals right here means your board stays reliable, and you stay rolling.